2016-03-20: Hiking Guadalupe Peak at 8749 Feet The Highest Point in Texas

Back in Florida, Candy and I went on some pretty challenging hikes with our Geocaching friends. Remember BoonieMan Springs and The Quest for the Apocalypse? Well today was one of the toughest hikes we've done so far.  Even last month at Palo Duro Canyon seemed like a stroll in the park in comparison. Today we set out to climb Guadalupe Peak (GC4EEF).

Located within Guadalupe Mountains National Park, the Guadalupe Peak is the highest point within the entire state of Texas. Towering at 8,749 feet, it is a 3000' climb from the trailhead at the parking lot! I think that's what got to us right from the start. Checking the GPS when we got back, we were already at 5839'. And for us "sea-level folks," we were at a disadvantage and just breathing was a challenge. But I'm getting ahead of myself.

We tried to get an early start, having packed some snacks in Candy's backpack and I had 2 cold bottles and 4 frozen bottles of water in mine. Leaving Monahans around 7:30 this morning, it was just over a 2-hour drive to the Parks visitors center. Heading west on I-20 turning north on US-285 in Pecos. While in Pecos, we gassed up the car and got some breakfast snacks and drinks since we haven't eaten yet. I also grabbed a Gatorade because I figured I'd get tired of drinking water.

After turning west on Hwy 652 in Orla, TX, it was long before we began seeing the mountains rising up from the horizon. This was a nice change because for months now Texas has either been mostly flat or canyons. Now, even 30-40 miles away, we begin to see the mountains. And we couldn't have picked a better day with clear blue skies and morning temperatures in the 40's.

After following Hwy 652 across and reaching the TX/NM state line, we turned southwest on US-62/US-180 which runs along the edge of the mountain range leading into the National Park. Now we can get a good look at the terrain of the mountains driving past the Frijole Ridge.

 

We finally arrived at the Pine Springs Visitor Center, the SE entrance to the park and over 80 miles of trails throughout the wilderness. There was also displays of the different wildlife and plants we might encounter on our hike. Though with the exception of many species of birds, we didn't see any other wildlife. Other than of the human variety. This was also the last chance for the next 8.4 miles and 5 hours to use the facilities!

Now it was time to get started. We left the visitor center and drove the half mile down to the trail head parking. Gathering up the backpacks, GPS, cell phones, keys, hiking stick, and making sure we had everything possible we were going to need, we walk over to the trailhead. And what do you think I see? A self-pay station. I figured they would have a charge to get into the national park. But I was expecting an entry gate or even being able to pay at the visitors center. Then we could use our credit/debit cards to pay the $5 each entry fee. I wasn't expecting to put cash in the envelope like most smaller parks and therefore didn't think to make sure we had plenty of cash on us. Digging in my pocket, I had $6, Candy had $1, and I managed to find $3 in change in the car! Completing the form on the envelope and placing the tear-off on the dashboard, FINALLY we are ready to begin hiking.

After just a couple hundred yards, we quickly realized that elevation makes a big difference! Our lungs had a hard time getting the required amount of oxygen required for hiking up this mountain. The trail quickly began with many switchbacks climbing higher and higher. After ascending about 500', I noticed something that sounded like a rhythmic drum. Almost as if there were Indian war drums sounding off in the far distance. After a few seconds, I realized that I'm hearing my own heart beating trying to distribute the needed fuel to my leg muscles! After almost an hour we started getting acclimated to the altitude and our breathing, though still elevated, became more normal. It was definitely a great cardio workout! 

Looking back at the parking and trail switchbacks from almost 1000' up.

Along the way up we were passed by about a dozen hikers, I think all were younger. Finally at about the 6700' mark, we caught up to two guys taking a break. My first question to them: "Are you also sea-level folks?" YEP! One was from Houston and the other from the valley. (not sure where "the valley" was) But this was their first hike. We chatted for a few moments, they took our picture for us, and we passed through.

By now our breathing and heartbeat rate was more normal for hiking as we became used to the altitude and we could enjoy the views more as well. The temperature was probably in the 50's now and felt good in the sun. The next 1000' wasn't as steep as the first. There were longer, more gradual stretches of trail and fewer switchbacks on the second mountain we had to pass around on our way to Guadalupe Peak.

There were also more trees and shade on this section. And with the increasing wind gusts, consistent breeze, and higher altitude, it got cold enough for Candy to put her jacket back on.

We saw a lot of different variety of birds, though we couldn't get any good photos of them. This one bird flew by so fast it was like watching a fighter jet. It flew up, did a half loop and away, twice within about 20 seconds.

And then there were these trees which had a strange bark to them. They almost looked like a normal tree coated with a thick orange liquid that hardened in place over it. We only saw about 5 or 6 of these trees not too far from each other. If you happen to know what these were, I hope you leave a comment below with the name of them.

interesting tree bark

How is that giant rock staying up there?

Ain't she cute!

At 7,700 feet (2,000' up from trailhead), we took another short break and encountered our first hiker coming down the mountain. He said he started out at sunrise. After that a few more hikers began trickling by on the way down the mountain. All saying the same thing; "you're almost there!" Yeah sure. Thirty minutes have passed since we first were told that and we're still can't see the silver pyramid at the peak!

The last 1000' was like the first 1000', rougher terrain and a steeper ascent. There was one section where the rock had fallen away and the trail disappeared so the park service built a short bridge to cross over along the trail.

There were a few times along the trail where the snow had not yet melted. Typically shaded by the trees and in the cracks of the rocks, protected from the sun and staying cold.

Are we there yet?

It finally got to the point where we could see the finish line. The last leg was the toughest climb. According to the GPS, we were just 0.25 miles to the peak. Yet we still had a 500' climb to the top. Several steep switchbacks and rocky narrow trails ahead. We could see the tip of the silver pyramid monument. We were almost there for real!

YAY! We made it to the top of Guadalupe Peak! At 8,749 feet, the highest point in the state of Texas. A difficult climb, but well worth the views. When we reached the top there were about a dozen hikers scattered about the rocks relaxing and having their lunch.

Well all but four rather rude hikers who camped out right there around the monument and started eating. One of which was standing and leaning against the monument taking pictures all around. So Candy and I sat nearby getting something to drink and snack on. Candy began assembling the selfi-stick so we could take our photo. One of the four left to walk around and take some other photos, but three were still blocking the way for not only ours but several other newly arriving hikers.

Finally I just had to get rude myself and ask them to move so we and others could take a photo by the monument without them being in our photo! The one girl who was leaning against it thought she would be fine trying to hide behind it until one of the other guys with her told here she should move out of the way.

Finally getting our chance, we stood in front for our photos. You can probably tell this was my first time using a selfi-stick! We just bought it yesterday for this hike. I gotta remember to hold it with the outside arm and away so the stick is not in the picture! It was hard to see if the blue tooth connection was working and taking pictures. We did manage to get two photos before moving away and not hogging the spot so others could get their photos.

Looking towards the Salt Basin west of Guadalupe Peak.

Going down was pretty good in the beginning, but that didn't last long. Most people think that climbing is the hardest, but in reality going downhill is worse. Climbing is harder on the muscles, descending is harder on the joints because of the constant impact. Having broken her foot and ankle in the past, it wasn't long before Candy's feet, then knees and hips to begin hurting.

For the first half of the way down, we hiked along with this other couple from Oklahoma. The conversation helped with keeping out minds off the aches and pains that were beginning to build up. At one point they took a short break and not long after we took a longer break allowing them to pass. That was the last we saw of them. I guess we were slowing them down.

Once we finally had the parking lot, and more urgently needed bathroom facilities in view, our pace picked up a little. Seeing the GeoPrius never felt so good! After 8.4 miles on a strenuous rated hiking trail, a total of 6000 feet in total elevation change, taking the backpack off and sitting in the drivers seat was so nice. Even knowing we still had a 2-hour drive back home.

There are still four more virtual caches and even more traditional Geocaches within this park, but just the one along this Guadalupe Peak trail. Even though we may feel the effects of this hike in our muscles and joints for days to come, it hasn't deterred us from returning again for more punishment! Our Geocaching adventure hiking friends back in Florida would be so proud of us. Hiking all this way just for one virtual Geocache!

2016-03-19: Geocaching History in Pecos Texas and a Couple of Cemeteries

With the move last weekend from Lubbock down to Monahans, Texas, we didn't get a chance to go Geocaching and exploring. So today was a good day to get out and explore some new areas and pick up some new counties. Candy had to work a few hours this morning so we got a late start.

We headed west on I-20 towards Pecos and by now it was getting close to lunch time and neither one of us have eaten anything all morning. So a quick Google of restaurants in Pecos and I decided on Old Mill BBQ and Burritos. I ordered the BBQ brisket and sausage, while Candy ordered a cheese burger and fries. And we still got the traditional nachos and salsa while waiting for our food. All the food there was pretty good, so it'll definitely be getting a return visit from us.

Now that we have full bellies, it's time to go exploring and Geocaching! Out first stop was at the rodeo. The first cache (GC234FP) was to highlight that the town of Pecos hosted the worlds very first rodeo. Held a block south of the Pecos courthouse on July 4, 1883. The rodeo started with claims of three cattle ranches having the fastest steer ropers; the NA, the W, and the Lazy Y ranches.

Settlers in town for the Fourth of July picnic were spectators. The prizes were blue ribbons cut by pocket knife from a new dress of a 4-year old girl in the crowd.

The best roper was Morg Livingston of the NA Ranch and second place was Trav Windham of the Lazy Y.

Just down the road was the West of the Pecos Museum and our next Geocache (GC47RDM). On the outside was a replica office and courthouse of Judge Roy Bean, Justice of the Peace and the Law. Phantly Roy Bean, Jr. (c. 1825 – March 16, 1903) was an eccentric U.S. saloon-keeper and Justice of the Peace in Val Verde County, Texas, who called himself "The Law West of the Pecos". According to legend, Judge Roy Bean held court in his saloon along the Rio Grande on a desolate stretch of the Chihuahuan Desert of southwest Texas. After his death, Western films and books cast him as a hanging judge, although he is known to have sentenced only two men to hang, one of whom escaped.

Next to the office was the gravesite of Clay Allison. Robert Clay Allison (September 2, 1841 – July 3, 1887) was a cattle rancher, cattle broker, and sometimes gunfighter of the American Old West. He fought for the Confederacy in the Civil War. Allison had a reputation for violence, having survived several one-on-one knife and gunfights (some with lawmen), as well as being implicated in a number of vigilante jail break-ins and lynchings. He is posthumously known as the man who "...never killed a man that did not need killing." A drunken Allison once rode his horse through town nearly naked—wearing only his gunbelt.

Also on the grounds was an old jail replica and the Mesquite House, the oldest house in Pecos.


Then came the museum itself. On the right was the original saloon and hotel on the left. Touted as the “best hotel between Fort Worth and El Paso”, The Number 11 Saloon, with guestrooms on the second floor – was built in 1896 of Pecos Valley red sandstone. The quarry was just 8 miles east of Pecos. The three story hotel was added in 1904 by R.S. Johnson. Mr. Johnson, a retired Texas Ranger, was in charge of the saloon and his wife ran the hotel. The hotel served as a headquarters for land promoters, salesmen and families of settlers in the early years of Pecos Valley development. The hotel and saloon were restored in 1962 and opened as the West of the Pecos Museum in 1963. Many civic organizations and groups contributed volunteer hours and resources to the museum’s exhibits. Original pressed tin ceiling, hand – carved newel posts were preserved.. Most of the furnishings in the Number 11 Saloon are original. Over 50 rooms of pioneer history and memorabilia are housed in the old hotel and saloon.

A few blocks away was the Old Pecos Cemetery (GC1P62N). The original burial site of the gunslinger Clay Allison before being relocated outside the museum. The Old Pecos Cemetery was used from 1880 to 1910 by settlers in the Pecos Valley. Originally established for railroad construction workers who died during the building of the railroad. There are only 6 marked graves remaining and some wooden crosses for the unknown.

Leaving Pecos, we headed north on US-285 to Hwy 302 into the small town of Mentone. A quick rest area cache (GC2H0BC) on the west end of town before getting a virtual cache (GC621F) at the Loving County Courthouse. Though I don't understand the name that well considering that "Loving" County is the LEAST populated county in the lower 48 states! In September 2000, National Geographic Magazine did a series of articles on various Zip Codes in the United States. Here is a link to their website for this location: Zip Code 79754.

Our next cache and always a favorite was one placed at a cemetery (GC638RA). Since Loving County is sparsely populated, there aren't any "official" cemeteries. Burials are typically on the family ranch. This Geocache was the only cemetery cache located within the county and had only 3 grave sites. The first was dated 1912 for Shady Davis. Shady Davis was a young cowboy who was fatally injured by being dragged by his horse during a roundup. The two other graves were from 1992 and 2007.
Located on the Slash (Johnson Brothers) Ranch but accessible via a few oil field access roads, it was some rough driving for the GeoPrius. We both agreed (again) that it was time for a Jeep! One of these days... Anyway, we got to within .15 miles from the cemetery when we encountered a rut I thought to be too deep for the car. So we hiked it the remaining way.

After another lonely cache in the middle of nowhere (GC2MX4H), we continued north on US285 almost to the New Mexico state line. There was the location of our next historic Geocache (GC36AG6) along the old section of the Pecos River Railroad. First opening in 1891, it later merged with the Panhandle and Sante Fe Railroad in 1948. Eventually this original section was abandoned in 1990-91.

That was pretty much it for the day. Not a whole lot, but we did have a good adventure and especially enjoyed touring the museum and learning about the history of the area. Tomorrow we have a big hike planned, so we hope you return for that. See you soon.

2016-03-11: A Canceled Appointment Means Geocaching Through Cemeteries

So this coming weekend was to be moving day. Candy's term at the facility in Lubbock has ended and she's transferring down to Monahans, Texas. The office for the next apartment complex was closed on weekends so today I was going to drive down and pickup a key to move in on Sunday. Well above halfway down, I received a phone call from them and we would have to wait until Monday. So I made a u-turn back to Lubbock.

But not all was lost. Might as well do some Geocaching on the way back! I stopped by the O'Donnell Cemetery (GC4X8H7) just south of the town of O'Donnell. Couldn't find much information about the cemetery itself, but did see some interesting headstones. The earliest dates back to 1920 and J.C. Paul. There were a lot of babies and small children, many of which were undated like the photo.

The next Geocache and cemetery was the Hancock Cemetery in Dawson County (GC5HGW3). Again not being able to find the history of the cemetery except the date of 1925 on the overhead entrance gate. There were some interesting headstones in there as well.

In the town of O'Donnell, Texas was another Geocache (GC509PA) next to this abandoned food store. An interesting old building and on the front facade you could still make out the partial name of "O'Donnell Food." Possible a grocery store, but looking inside I saw a lot of cages and written on the inside wall the statement: "NOTICE ALL PROCESSING CHARGES MUST BE PAID WHEN MEAT IS PICKED UP!" Could it have been a butcher or meat processing place? I'm not sure.

The next stop was at the Plain View Cemetery (GC5MB7G) and my next Geocache. Again I wasn't able to find any history of the cemetery, but there were some headstones dating back to the early 1900's. The one of most interest is that of PaNaTa "Netty" Alford Gregory (April 29, 1937 - August 29, 1912). Daughter of Puchethi and Fernaty Alford, Granddaughter of Shawnee Chief Tecumseh and Manete, great grand-daughter of Chief Pucksinwah and Methoataske.

My last cache for the day was at the Plains Community Center GCN5VB). Plains, Texas, which is not to be confused with Plains, Texas the Yoakum County seat, is a tiny community located in northwestern Borden County to the northwest of Gail near the small ghost town of Mesquite. It was an old farming community that was once home to a functioning school. That school house is today a community center. Though looking in through the windows, probably hasn't been used in a long time. Still has the old style steel swings and slide in back, definitely not safe by todays' standards!

Across the street was another old abandoned building in deteriorating condition. I didn't see any signs or anything giving away its long ago purpose. Taking a peak into the windows, there were a couple of old appliances, pallets, and wood piles. The ceiling and pieces of the roof had fallen and laying on top of everything so it just looked like a pile of debris inside. But based upon the layout, I'd say this was once a church. But once again, I couldn't find any information on it.

Enough Geocaching for today. Time to get back home.