2016-03-20: Hiking Guadalupe Peak at 8749 Feet The Highest Point in Texas

Back in Florida, Candy and I went on some pretty challenging hikes with our Geocaching friends. Remember BoonieMan Springs and The Quest for the Apocalypse? Well today was one of the toughest hikes we've done so far.  Even last month at Palo Duro Canyon seemed like a stroll in the park in comparison. Today we set out to climb Guadalupe Peak (GC4EEF).

Located within Guadalupe Mountains National Park, the Guadalupe Peak is the highest point within the entire state of Texas. Towering at 8,749 feet, it is a 3000' climb from the trailhead at the parking lot! I think that's what got to us right from the start. Checking the GPS when we got back, we were already at 5839'. And for us "sea-level folks," we were at a disadvantage and just breathing was a challenge. But I'm getting ahead of myself.

We tried to get an early start, having packed some snacks in Candy's backpack and I had 2 cold bottles and 4 frozen bottles of water in mine. Leaving Monahans around 7:30 this morning, it was just over a 2-hour drive to the Parks visitors center. Heading west on I-20 turning north on US-285 in Pecos. While in Pecos, we gassed up the car and got some breakfast snacks and drinks since we haven't eaten yet. I also grabbed a Gatorade because I figured I'd get tired of drinking water.

After turning west on Hwy 652 in Orla, TX, it was long before we began seeing the mountains rising up from the horizon. This was a nice change because for months now Texas has either been mostly flat or canyons. Now, even 30-40 miles away, we begin to see the mountains. And we couldn't have picked a better day with clear blue skies and morning temperatures in the 40's.

After following Hwy 652 across and reaching the TX/NM state line, we turned southwest on US-62/US-180 which runs along the edge of the mountain range leading into the National Park. Now we can get a good look at the terrain of the mountains driving past the Frijole Ridge.

 

We finally arrived at the Pine Springs Visitor Center, the SE entrance to the park and over 80 miles of trails throughout the wilderness. There was also displays of the different wildlife and plants we might encounter on our hike. Though with the exception of many species of birds, we didn't see any other wildlife. Other than of the human variety. This was also the last chance for the next 8.4 miles and 5 hours to use the facilities!

Now it was time to get started. We left the visitor center and drove the half mile down to the trail head parking. Gathering up the backpacks, GPS, cell phones, keys, hiking stick, and making sure we had everything possible we were going to need, we walk over to the trailhead. And what do you think I see? A self-pay station. I figured they would have a charge to get into the national park. But I was expecting an entry gate or even being able to pay at the visitors center. Then we could use our credit/debit cards to pay the $5 each entry fee. I wasn't expecting to put cash in the envelope like most smaller parks and therefore didn't think to make sure we had plenty of cash on us. Digging in my pocket, I had $6, Candy had $1, and I managed to find $3 in change in the car! Completing the form on the envelope and placing the tear-off on the dashboard, FINALLY we are ready to begin hiking.

After just a couple hundred yards, we quickly realized that elevation makes a big difference! Our lungs had a hard time getting the required amount of oxygen required for hiking up this mountain. The trail quickly began with many switchbacks climbing higher and higher. After ascending about 500', I noticed something that sounded like a rhythmic drum. Almost as if there were Indian war drums sounding off in the far distance. After a few seconds, I realized that I'm hearing my own heart beating trying to distribute the needed fuel to my leg muscles! After almost an hour we started getting acclimated to the altitude and our breathing, though still elevated, became more normal. It was definitely a great cardio workout! 

Looking back at the parking and trail switchbacks from almost 1000' up.

Along the way up we were passed by about a dozen hikers, I think all were younger. Finally at about the 6700' mark, we caught up to two guys taking a break. My first question to them: "Are you also sea-level folks?" YEP! One was from Houston and the other from the valley. (not sure where "the valley" was) But this was their first hike. We chatted for a few moments, they took our picture for us, and we passed through.

By now our breathing and heartbeat rate was more normal for hiking as we became used to the altitude and we could enjoy the views more as well. The temperature was probably in the 50's now and felt good in the sun. The next 1000' wasn't as steep as the first. There were longer, more gradual stretches of trail and fewer switchbacks on the second mountain we had to pass around on our way to Guadalupe Peak.

There were also more trees and shade on this section. And with the increasing wind gusts, consistent breeze, and higher altitude, it got cold enough for Candy to put her jacket back on.

We saw a lot of different variety of birds, though we couldn't get any good photos of them. This one bird flew by so fast it was like watching a fighter jet. It flew up, did a half loop and away, twice within about 20 seconds.

And then there were these trees which had a strange bark to them. They almost looked like a normal tree coated with a thick orange liquid that hardened in place over it. We only saw about 5 or 6 of these trees not too far from each other. If you happen to know what these were, I hope you leave a comment below with the name of them.

interesting tree bark

How is that giant rock staying up there?

Ain't she cute!

At 7,700 feet (2,000' up from trailhead), we took another short break and encountered our first hiker coming down the mountain. He said he started out at sunrise. After that a few more hikers began trickling by on the way down the mountain. All saying the same thing; "you're almost there!" Yeah sure. Thirty minutes have passed since we first were told that and we're still can't see the silver pyramid at the peak!

The last 1000' was like the first 1000', rougher terrain and a steeper ascent. There was one section where the rock had fallen away and the trail disappeared so the park service built a short bridge to cross over along the trail.

There were a few times along the trail where the snow had not yet melted. Typically shaded by the trees and in the cracks of the rocks, protected from the sun and staying cold.

Are we there yet?

It finally got to the point where we could see the finish line. The last leg was the toughest climb. According to the GPS, we were just 0.25 miles to the peak. Yet we still had a 500' climb to the top. Several steep switchbacks and rocky narrow trails ahead. We could see the tip of the silver pyramid monument. We were almost there for real!

YAY! We made it to the top of Guadalupe Peak! At 8,749 feet, the highest point in the state of Texas. A difficult climb, but well worth the views. When we reached the top there were about a dozen hikers scattered about the rocks relaxing and having their lunch.

Well all but four rather rude hikers who camped out right there around the monument and started eating. One of which was standing and leaning against the monument taking pictures all around. So Candy and I sat nearby getting something to drink and snack on. Candy began assembling the selfi-stick so we could take our photo. One of the four left to walk around and take some other photos, but three were still blocking the way for not only ours but several other newly arriving hikers.

Finally I just had to get rude myself and ask them to move so we and others could take a photo by the monument without them being in our photo! The one girl who was leaning against it thought she would be fine trying to hide behind it until one of the other guys with her told here she should move out of the way.

Finally getting our chance, we stood in front for our photos. You can probably tell this was my first time using a selfi-stick! We just bought it yesterday for this hike. I gotta remember to hold it with the outside arm and away so the stick is not in the picture! It was hard to see if the blue tooth connection was working and taking pictures. We did manage to get two photos before moving away and not hogging the spot so others could get their photos.

Looking towards the Salt Basin west of Guadalupe Peak.

Going down was pretty good in the beginning, but that didn't last long. Most people think that climbing is the hardest, but in reality going downhill is worse. Climbing is harder on the muscles, descending is harder on the joints because of the constant impact. Having broken her foot and ankle in the past, it wasn't long before Candy's feet, then knees and hips to begin hurting.

For the first half of the way down, we hiked along with this other couple from Oklahoma. The conversation helped with keeping out minds off the aches and pains that were beginning to build up. At one point they took a short break and not long after we took a longer break allowing them to pass. That was the last we saw of them. I guess we were slowing them down.

Once we finally had the parking lot, and more urgently needed bathroom facilities in view, our pace picked up a little. Seeing the GeoPrius never felt so good! After 8.4 miles on a strenuous rated hiking trail, a total of 6000 feet in total elevation change, taking the backpack off and sitting in the drivers seat was so nice. Even knowing we still had a 2-hour drive back home.

There are still four more virtual caches and even more traditional Geocaches within this park, but just the one along this Guadalupe Peak trail. Even though we may feel the effects of this hike in our muscles and joints for days to come, it hasn't deterred us from returning again for more punishment! Our Geocaching adventure hiking friends back in Florida would be so proud of us. Hiking all this way just for one virtual Geocache!

2016-02-21: Hiking in a Beautiful Canyon with a Beautiful Lady and She Said YES!

Hello again and welcome back to our Geocaching Adventure blog. Today I had a surprise planned for Candy. We were supposed to have gone to Palo Duro Canyon here in Texas back in November for a vacation. But do to her job change at that same time, our vacation plans were cancelled and we ended up moving to Texas. First in East Texas and now in West Texas.

Well today we finally got the chance and good weather to make the 2-hour drive up and take a hike. And I couldn't have asked for much better weather either. It started out a little cloudy. But by the time we reached our the Lighthouse Peak, the sky had cleared. Still a little windy, especially up at the peak. But at least it wasn't hot!

After arriving at the trailhead parking, I put on the backpack with some bottled water, grabbed both GPS's for Geocaching, and away we went. Because the weather was so nice and being a Sunday, there were quite a few people out on the trails. I mean there must have been 25-30 cars parked at the trail head and saw plenty of people coming and going along the trail.

We started out on the trail and within a few hundred feet came to and found our first Geocache. Then about 600'-700' down we found the next cache. The next cache however, we spent about 10 minutes looking without success, a DNF. It was then I decided that this may take more time than I expected. So we just hiked through to the Lighthouse Peak and would do the Geocaching on the way back.

We enjoyed the views and took lots of pictures. In this first photo below, I don't know if this rock formation has a specific name but I call it "Sitting Chief." Following the ridge to the right and into the second photo, this hill is actually called "Capital Peak."

Sitting Chief

Capital Peak

Down to the right you can see two peaks way in the distance.
That is Lighthouse Peak and our destination.

After about an hour, we arrived at the base of Lighthouse Peak and began our climb up. This section here was probably the most difficult as there was a lot of sand through here which made the steep climb slippery. You kinda had to walk funny from side-to-side finding flat spots on secure rock.

We've reached the top! Here is a panoramic photo taken from between the two towers. It was a spectacular view! The wind was blowing at about a chilly 30 mph too. But definitely worth the 6.84 mile round trip hike!

After a few moments of enjoying those views and taking pictures, we saw some hikers going up to the top of the second peak. The one to the right side of the next photo. So we decide to follow up the narrow trail to go part way up also.

Now we're back down next to Lighthouse Peak and got another hiker to take our photo. Before heading back, I decided it was time and took off my backpack and we sat on the edge looking out into the canyon. Looking at the photo of us below, it was just to the right of where we are standing. We had just celebrated our two years together since our first date and TODAY was Candy's birthday.

I reminisced about our adventures and how we've gotten through some rough spots already. And that if we work together, we can climb any mountain and walk through any valley. Just as we hiked up here to Lighthouse Peak. I then proceeded to ask her if she would marry me and she said YES! YIPPEE!! I have been waiting many months to get here to this beautiful place to propose to a beautiful lady! 

On the hike back we found 11 more Geocaches for a total of 13 along the trail. There were almost as many missing caches having 9 DNF's! We didn't look for all of those 9 as most had previous DNF's from the last few cachers.

Below we had a tiny water crossing and had to make it as dramatic as possible for our extreme Geocaching friends back in Florida! And MY Sweet Candy and her phone ready to take photos. She's so cute!

"This is where he proposed and I said YES!"

I saw the little trail and had to run up the hill.
From that point up got a little more vertical!

So today was another especially great adventure kinda day! We can now call each other fiance instead of boyfriend and girlfriend! Thanks for reading about our special day. We hope you enjoyed it. Please leave a comment to let us know you stopped by and feel free to share it with your friends. Maybe that boyfriend or girlfriend to kinda drop a hint! Hmmm...

See ya next time.

2016-02-06: Geocaching and Canyon Hiking in Dickens Springs

Today we wanted to do some rough terrain hiking and Geocaching. Our last few months back in Florida, we starting doing the bushwhacking and hiking through scrub and swamp. While the chance of hiking a swamp in West Texas is ZERO, there is opportunity to do some bushwhacking through the forest.

About an hour east of Lubbock are several Geocaches with high terrain rating located within Dickens Springs. So after breakfast, we headed out on US-82 into Dickens County and the town of Dickens. After stopping by the historic Dickens County Courthouse and the County Jail buildings for photos, we arrived at the Dickens County Springs Park from 1891.

The history of the springs from the Historical Marker:

At one time, water covered this area. Sandstone, the prominent rock around this site, is porous, causing exposed strata at canyon rims to form a natural drainage outlet for upland aquifers, making possible the existence of these springs. Situated at the head of a canyon ravine immediately below the Upper Prairie Region of the Rolling Plains, the ancient springs have been a favored human habitat since the earliest human occupation in this region. Many nomadic tribes have used the site, leaving behind a wealth of archaeological evidence. 

John A. Askins and his family settled near these springs in late 1883, and it became known to pioneers as Askins Springs. A traveling real estate developer called Dr. M. S. Crow arrived here in 1891 and was a driving force in the organization of the town of Dickens about a half-mile west of the Askins land. In 1891 he gave a speech proclaiming his intent to give ten acres around "Crow Springs," as he called them, to the town of Dickens. The new city park became known as Dickens Springs. Generations of Dickens citizens and tourists, attracted by the rugged and colorful scenery and the unique collection of plants, have visited this site for picnics and social gatherings. In 1978 the departments of Anthropology and of Park Management at Texas Tech University made an intensive survey of the land surrounding Dickens Springs. Though many artifacts were lost to souvenir hunters, the university workers uncovered a variety of ancient tools, rarely of local origin. In the 21st century, Dickens Springs continues to provide water and beauty to the area for modern visitors as it did for the nomadic peoples of the past.

So we drove towards the springs and canyon area and about halfway down the entrance the road forks. Naturally I take the right fork. Not having ever been here before, we later learned I should've went left. You'll see why as you continue reading!

We arrive at the parking area for the Chuck Wagon (GC4ZZA4). A quick find of our first cache, and we go check out the chuck wagon. A makeshift replica of an old west covered wagon with a picnic table in the center. Hopefully in the hotter summer months, they have a canvas giving shade to those having a picnic.

As you can see from the photo above, if you do decide to have a picnic here, you will have an incredible view of the canyon. Our next cache was called the "Forgotten Picnic Table" (GC552R2). Looking above at the picture again and the trees in the foreground, that's where the spring flows. That's also the location of our next cache. DOWN into the canyon! We started down what appeared to be several different trails leading down, but none panned out. So we just started bushwhacking our way through the trees, bushes, and thorns.

It's kinda hard to tell in the photo below, but the first is looking down through the trees what we had to get through. After about 30 minutes, we finally made it to the bottom and found the forgotten picnic table and the cache.

Now the next cache seemed to be in the direction of the top of canyon on the opposite side about 1/4 mile away. But before we climbed back up the opposite side, I wanted to find the origin of the spring. Plus it was kinda going in the same direction anyway. So we followed the small creek upstream to the spring.

REALLY?! We arrive at the springs only to find stairs and a trail leading UP to the other parking area. Yeah, remember that fork in the road I mentioned? If we had taken the left fork, we could have parked and taken the easy way down into the canyon. I know, I know... where's the adventure in that right? So we check out the springs and take the trail up to the giant steel teepee covering another picnic table.

Now checking out the remaining caches, we were now closer to The Mystery of the Dug-Out-Mine cache (GCHYXZ). While not really a mine, this is actually a replica of the original first home built around 1878 by John Askins (even though the above sign at the entrance suggests 1883). The dugout was a common sense first home for early settlers in timber poor West Texas. John Askins traveled to Colorado City, TX for the tin used to roof his dugout. The remains of the original dugout were located about 200 yards to the south. But this method was a quick way to get shelter until more lumber or brick could be brought in to build a house.

Finding the cache above and behind the dugout house.

Looking back down the canyon from the cache in the above photo, if you look closely to the top right side, you can hopefully make out the frame of the chuck wagon. We bushwhacked our way down to the forgotten picnic table below the trees in the center of the photo. Then towards the camera to the right for the springs and up to the dugout house out of the photo to the right. Now the last cache was over to the top of the hill to the left side of the canyon.

So we went back down the stairs to the spring and followed the creek a short ways until we got to within 200' of the cache (GCHYXW). Then it was climbing UP the side of the canyon through rock, sand, and trees to get to this boulder you see below. We searched for about 15 minutes without any luck. This cache on the opposite side of the canyon doesn't get looked for as often as the others. The last time it was found was in May of 2014. Since then there has only been one other cacher logging a DNF in March of 2015. And now almost another year later and our DNF. I don't like going through all this and not come away with a find.

Having now hiked back down to the creek, we decided not to go the short route back to the car which would also require bushwhacking back up the canyon. Instead we went back up to the springs and the teepee parking area, and walked the road back to the fork and then down again to the chuck wagon and our car. I forgot how long a walk it was going around the long way, but it felt like a mile!

Driving back up to the entrance of the park, there was one last cache (GC54JDT) to get and another short hike up the hill. If you look back up to the photo of the entrance, you'll see the hill off to the left side. Yep, we now had to hike up there too!

The last cache for the day was at the Dickens Cemetery (GC5HGQC). A quick find and we then headed back to Lubbock. Another long but adventurous day hiking in the wilderness. Yes, our muscles maybe a little sore, but definitely well worth it!